Christmas in Thailand is more village and church-oriented rather than family-oriented. Gifts are often exchanged, but it is usually a small part of the celebration. Ask most village Christians what their Christmas celebration is like and the answer would likely describe a day of fun and food followed by a "concert" that goes late into the night.
I recently attended a village Christmas celebration in the village of Glaw Taw. This is a large Karen village of several hundred homes but only 18 Christians from 10 families. As in many villages, the Christmas celebration is used as a tool to reach out to the non-Christian neighbors. It is a great opportunity to tell the story of Jesus Christ. There are also many misconceptions about Christians and a lot of fear of the unknown on the part of non-Christian neighbors. So Christmas is also an opportunity to build trust and good relations with the non-Christian community.
As I was driving to Glaw Taw from Chiang Mai, others from a half dozen surrounding churches were also making their way to the village. The small church at Glaw Taw had already prepared bamboo sleeping shelters for the guests, a stage for the concert, built a roof and covered the ground with straw for an eating area, had carried water to fill drums for bathing and cooking, gathered firewood and large cooking pots to prepare food and decorated the bamboo walled church with foil garlands and palm leaves.
Any day in December can be chosen for "Christmas Day". Sunday, December 16 was chosen for this celebration. Those coming from longer distances like me started arriving on Saturday. Many others arrived on Sunday morning. With the arrival of each new group there were many greetings exchanged, followed by quieter conversations as people that did not see each other often caught up on the local news.
The day started at 7:00 a.m. with the morning service. That was good news for me, as these services will usually start at 6 in the morning! This service has a short (at least by Karen standards) devotion from the main speaker followed by prayers, favorite scripture readings, songs, thoughts or what ever people in the congregation would like to share.
This service is followed by breakfast. I was being honored and could stay at the Pastor's house. About eight of us guests sat on the floor around a table about three feet across and six inches high. We had a nice breakfast of deep fried scrambled eggs, spiced chicken intestines and a spicy soup of boiled chicken all over as much rice as we could eat. The meal was followed by a strong, locally grown tea.
Around 10:30 in the morning, the main worship service was held. I was to give the sermon so I joined the row of visiting pastors and church leaders sitting in the front of the church. We each wore the bright red shirt that is traditional for Karen men. Each of the visitors was given a role in the service and time to share. Visiting groups were also introduced and each had the chance to sing during the course of the service as well. Needless to say, the service by no means stayed within the hour many US churches allow!
With only 18 members, the church building is small so on this day with all the visitors, the inside was completely full with people sitting in the shade on mats outside the church as well. Altogether, maybe 100 people were at the service. The offering collected was to be used for a group that helps handicapped Karen. The 100 people contributed around $30—quite a large sum by village standards.
After the service, snacks were provided. Since it was a celebration, store bought cookies and soft drinks were provided. Super sweet soft drinks colored red and green accompanied by pink and green cookies were spread out on the traditional low tables with straw for seating. Through the afternoon, some of the visiting church groups organized games for the young and old, whoever wanted to participate. These would be like relay races or the party or shower games we might play in the US.
In the late afternoon, the big meal of the day was served. The main course was a kind of boiled rice stew flavored with chicken meat that is put over more rice. The stew is cooked in huge pots over an open fire, stirred with wooden paddles.
After the meal, set up begins for the evening concert. There is no electricity in the village but a generator is brought in to supply power. Wiring and switch boxes are jury rigged, patched, mended and spliced until enough power gets to the right places. A US electrician or safety inspector would be horrified at the wiring job, but it seems to work and no one is electrocuted.
A church from Mae Sot, four hours to the north is providing the sound equipment and a group from another church is providing most of the talent. After it gets good and dark, about 7 pm, the show gets underway. Re-enactment of the night of Jesus’ birth begins the show followed by a variety of singing, dancing, and speaking. Almost anyone who wants to can go on stage and contribute. Even Santa Claus shows up! He is a good bit shorter and thinner than I remember from my youth, but he runs around the stage a bit, leaps down into the crowd and throws candy out to an eager crowd. It is hard to guess just how many attend the concert, but most of the village must be there. I would guess 500 or more see the show.
I have my time to share at the concert and eventually head to my bed on the floor of the pastor’s house around 10 pm. I go to sleep with the sound of the concert ringing loudly in the background. I think it goes on until close to midnight. That concludes the Glaw Taw Christmas.
Monday morning we wake up, pack up and hit the road. The Mae Sot church and the group doing the concert head to the next village. I understand them to say they will be doing these kinds of Christmas shows every day for a week or so. We make a side trip to a near by refugee camp, then head back home to Chiang Mai. There are lots of Christmas celebrations in Chiang Mai as well. By the time December 25th comes, we've usually participated in a number of Christmases already. It is tiring, but what better way to celebrate Christmas than to present the "Glad tidings of Great Joy" to those that have not heard it?