But much had
not changed. The trip from the airport was
classic Cuba: the 1950’s car broke down before we had even left the
airport (8:00 pm), and continued to break down numerous times
before we finally made it to Santiago de Cuba at 11:30 pm.
Especially in the provinces (in contrast to the capital, Havana)
everything is scarce and basic survival is like a treasure hunt:
searching for food, toilet paper, supplies for house repairs,
spices and herbs, fruits and vegetables, car parts, paper,
medicine. Transportation is managed with a combination of walking,
bicycles, cars, buses, máquinas
(group taxis), bicycle-taxis, horse and buggy and
motorcyles with side cars. Internet is not available. The
average salary is $15/ month. This is supplemented by free
education through graduate studies and health care as well as basic
food items. When the entire system was self-enclosed, the
government could fix prices to match the salaries. But when things
are imported, the global economy doesn’t match the Cuban salary
scale. An imported bar of soap costs $4; a refrigerator, $1000;
tennis shoes, $100. Much of the problem is related to the US
embargo against Cuba, which doubles the price of all products from
the US because they must pass through a third country. I took flash
drives for everyone at $4 each; in Cuba they are $25.
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